Guest Column
Zacatecas Many Cities, Many Customs
- HISTORY
- Zacatecas Many Cities, Many Customs
- By John P. Schmal
The state of Zacatecas, located in the north central
portion of the Mexican Republic, is a land rich in cultural, religious, and
historical significance. Zacatecas, with a total of 75,040 square kilometers
and enormous mineral resources, has always been an essential component of
Mexico's cultural and economic potential. In addition, Zacatecas was the
focal point of political and cultural warfare for the better part of a
century from the beginning of Mexico's War of Independence (1810-1823) to
the bloody Mexican Civil War of 1910-1920. The struggle for the city of
Zacatecas reached a dramatic conclusion on June 23, 1914, when Pancho
Villa's rebel forces took control of the city after a historic battle.
Occupying 3.383% of the total surface area of Mexico, Zacatecas is the
eighth largest state of the Republic and is divided into a total of
fifty-six municipios, which contain a total of 5,064 localities. The state
is divided into three physiographic regions: the Eastern Sierra Madre
Mountains, the Central Plateau and the Western Sierra Madre.
With a population of 1,441,734 inhabitants, Zacatecas depends upon cattle
raising, agriculture, mining, communications, food processing, tourism, and
transportation for its livelihood. Although much of Zacatecas is desert, the
primary economic driver of the state is agriculture. Zacatecas is Mexico's
foremost producer of beans, chili peppers and cactus leaves, and holds
second place in guava production, third in grapes, and fifth in peaches.
At the time of the Spanish arrival in Mexico, the region of Zacatecas was
inhabited by various indigenous groups: Zacatecos, Caxcanes, Guachichiles,
Tepehuanes, Tecuexes and Irritilas. The bulk of this state was occupied by
the Zacatecos Indians (who inhabited much of the western section) and the
Guachichiles (who occupied large portions of the eastern state). It is
important to understand that today's state boundaries did not exist during
the Sixteenth Century and that the indigenous groups of Zacatecas - some of
them nomadic - did not have fixed boundaries designating their territories.
More than likely, the territories of each group shifted constantly.
The first Spanish settlement to be founded on Zacatecas territory dates back
to 1531 when the Conquistador Nuño de Guzmán attempted to found the first
town of Guadalajara, not far from the present-day site of Nochistlán.
However, the Caxcanes who inhabited the area continuously attacked the
settlement, until the Spaniards were forced to flee and re-establish
Guadalajara to the south in present-day Jalisco.
A silver deposit was discovered in 1546 at the foot of the Bufa Hill, giving
way to the establishment of settlements in this region. Soon after, the city
of Zacatecas and its surrounding environment were developed by the
entrepreneurs Juan de Tolosa, Baltazar Temiño de Bañuelos, Diego de Ibarra
and Cristóbal de Oñate. Almost four decades later, King Felipe II granted
Zacatecas the title of "Very Noble and Loyal City of Our Lady of the
Zacatecas", and three years later ennobled it with a coat of arms.
Today, the City of Zacatecas is located some 618 kilometers (384 miles)
northwest of Mexico City and 315 kilometers (196 miles) north of
Guadalajara, Mexico's second largest city. However, in spite of this
significant distance, Zacatecas has played a pivotal role in the politics of
Mexico. The possession of this city and the rich silver mines surrounding it
has always been the goal of those who aspired to hold influence within the
Mexican Republic. In 1835, after defeating a separatist movement on the part
of the Zacatecas government, General Antonio Santa Anna sacked the city of
Zacatecas and the rich silver mines of Fresnillo to the northwest.
In the paragraphs below, we shall discuss the particulars of several cities
and municipios that lay within the boundaries of the state of Zacatecas.
Each location has had a unique history, influenced by its indigenous
inhabitants, the level of its mineral wealth, its agricultural potential,
and the actions of its native sons and daughters.
La Ciudad de Zacatecas. The City of Zacatecas lies within a narrow
ravine some 8,050 feet above sea level. Zacatecas came to the attention of
the Spanish authorities in 1546 when a rich vein of silver was discovered by
the Spanish explorer, Juan de Tolosa. Not long after, on January 20, 1548,
the villa of Zacatecas was officially founded.
It did not take long before a large migration took place from southern and
central Mexico to Zacatecas and the surrounding areas. The large quantities
of silver in this area became an important source of income for the colonial
administration. Quickly, Zacatecas became the chief mining center in Mexico,
earning the title of ciudad (city) from King Felipe II in 1585. In the
following centuries, the economic influence of Zacatecas continued to grow.
The Zacatecas tourist has many places to visit. Some of the most popular
destinations are the Baroque-Style Cathedral, the Temple of Santo Domingo,
San Francisco Convent, the Calderon Theater, the Gonzalez Ortega Market, and
several famous museums. Although Zacatecas is the most famous city of this
state, many lesser-known villas have grown up in all corners of the state.
While these settlements may seem less significant than the famous capital,
they represent the ancestral homelands of millions of Mexican Americans,
whose families have left the region to start new lives in the United States.
Likewise, some of these towns were the birthplaces of famous characters in
Mexican history.
Ojocaliente is a municipio located in the Zacatecas, 21 miles (37
kilometers) southeast of the City of Zacatecas. By Zacatecas standards,
Ojocaliente is a latecomer, having been founded in 1620 by Jose Teodor de
Bastidas. In this town, the tourist may find the Templo de Nuestra Señora de
los Milagros (Temple of Our Lady of the Miracles), built during the
Nineteenth Century. Twelve kilometers to the west of Ojocaliente, the
tourist will find the Cueva de Avalos (Cave of Avalos), which contain
interesting cave paintings from the pre-Hispanic era.
The founding of Ojocaliente is celebrated on September 8 with the Feria de
la Tuna y de la Uva (the Fair of the Tuna and the Grape), in which the
population engages in playful celebrations and dancing. Today, Ojocaliente
lies at the terminus of a railroad. Its primary sources of income are from
gold and silver mining and sulfur production. In 2000, Ojocaliente - the
city - had a population of 16,319 while the total population of the
municipio of the same name was 36,191.
Vetagrande is a small town 5 miles (8 kilometers) north of the City
of Zacatecas. The first major ore discovery had been located in this
vicinity in 1548 leading to a settlement of miners. Even today, Vetagrande
has a population of only 976 (in 1990). The mountains surrounding Vetagrande
still boast significant quantities of silver, lead and copper. Agricultural
production includes maguey, cereals and livestock. In 1995, the municipio of
Vetagrande registered a total of 6,989 inhabitants, which represents 0.52%
of the total population of the state.
Sain Alto. The town of Sain Alto is located on the interior plateau,
some 27 miles (43 kilometers) southwest of Río Grande, 128 kilometers from
the City of Zacatecas, two miles (3.2 km) east of Mexican Highway 45. It is
believed that the Zacatecos Indians inhabited the pre-Hispanic Sain Alto
region. Some of the Indian tribes set up camp in the nearby hills of
Atotonilco, Aposentillo, Los Pocitos, and the Hill of the Virgin. Spanish
explorers first passed through the area in 1552.
During the Sixteenth Century, Sain Alto was part of the greater Sombrerete
jurisdiction. Some of the Spaniards in the area established cattle ranches
and wheat farms. Tlaxcalans, African slaves, and some sedentary Zacatecos
Indians were brought in to provide the labor. Originally, Sain Alto was made
part of the Sombrerete municipio in 1824. In 1990, Sain Alto had a total
population of 21,046 inhabitants. In 1995, the municipio of Sain Alto
contained 21,779 inhabitants, making up 1.63% of the total population of the
state.
The church of San Sebastián is an architecturally attractive structure in
Sain Alto. The townspeople celebrate their most important festival every
Jan. 18 to 22 to honor San Sebastián, the Martyr. In this festival, the
citizens of Sain Alto dance and make pilgrimages. They enact the Dance of
the Palms to symbolize the encounter of Emperor Moctezuma with Hernán Cortés.
Sombrerete lies within the interior plateau of Mexico, some 90 miles
(145 kilometers) northwest of Zacatecas. At contact, this area was inhabited
primarily by Zacatecos Indians, with some Tecuexes and Guachichiles present
in the vicinity. Spanish explorers first came through the area in 1552 and
three years later, miners settled at the San Martín Mine.
On June 6, 1555, Juan de Tolosa and a small group of Spaniards and allied
Indians founded the town of Sombrerete. The name of the settlement derived
from a small hill nearby which had the appearance of a small hat. Silver
mines were developed in the area in the years that followed. In 1570,
Sombrerete attained the rank of a villa. According to Peter Gerhard's "North
Frontier of New Spain," Sombrerete was occupied by some sixty Spanish
vecinos and more than 500 Amerindians. From the founding until the 1590s,
the settlement at Sombrerete was under siege by hostile Zacatecos Indians.
Rich silver ores were discovered at Sombrerete in 1648 setting off a mining
boom that would last through the rest of the century. After 1787, Sombrerete
was created as a Subdelegación within the new administration of the
Intendancy of Zacatecas. On September 22, 1824, Sombrerete became a
municipio within the newly independent Mexican Republic. During the Mexican
Revolution of 1910-1920, Sombrerete became front-page news when it was taken
by the forces of Colonel Luis Moya in 1911. Later that year, Moya was
assassinated by his subordinate, Pablo Méndez.
Sombrerete's main attractions are some constructions of religious
architecture such as: The Baroque-Style Temple of San Francisco (built in
the Eighteenth Century), San Juan Bautista Church, the Temple of La Soledad
and church of Santo Domingo. From February 1st to 9th of each year, the
townspeople of Sombrerete hold a fair, called Feria Regional de La
Candelaria (the Regional Feast of Candelaria). In this festival, the
townspeople engage in sports, cultural events, dancing, serenades, and
running of the bulls. In 1995, the population of the municipio of Sombrerete
reached 62,252 inhabitants, which represented 4.88% of the total population
of the state of Zacatecas. Sombrerete is still a major mining center,
producing significant amounts of silver, gold, lead and copper.
Famous people from this town include: Miguel Auza (1822-1892) - Governor of
the State of Zacatecas who opposed the French occupation in 1862; Joaquín
Amaro (1889-1952) Minister of War; and the distinguished pianist, María
Teresa Elorduy.
Fresnillo de González Echeverría. Fresnillo is a good-sized city
located 60 kilometers (37 miles) northwest of the capital city along Federal
Highway 45. Geographically, Fresnillo is considered the center of the state
of Zacatecas. This central location has permitted Fresnillo to become a
point of strategic importance with regards to communications networks of the
state and the Mexican Republic.
The pre-Hispanic inhabitants of this area were the Zacatecos Indians, some
of whom engaged in farming while others lived a nomadic hunter-gatherer
existence. At some distance to the west there were several Tepecano and
Huichol villages. To the east, the very warlike Guachichile Indians held
sway.
Diego Hernández de Proaño explored this area during 1551 and 1552 and gave
it the name "Cerro de Proaño." A few years later, on Sept. 2, 1554,
Francisco de Ibarra and Juan de Tolosa (the founder of Zacatecas) lead an
expedition to this location and laid the foundations for a new villa, which
they called "El Ojo de Aguas del Fresnillo." In 1566, the mineral potential
of Fresnillo was discovered. Soon after, the town would develop into a major
silver mining location. Unlike other towns in Zacatecas, this town was
populated by Spaniards, not by an indigenous native population. The wealthy
miner, Diego de Ibarra, acquired much land in the area and introduced
livestock in the area. The cattle and grain produced by his haciendas would
provide a great deal of the food supply for the City of Zacatecas and other
mining centers.
Fresnillo was constituted as a Mayorship in 1580. Not until 1750, was the
Church of the Purification built. Fresnillo, as with other cities in
Zacatecas, was seized by the rebel forces of Miguel Hidalgo. A mining school
was founded in Fresnillo during 1853. The visit of President Benito Juárez
to the town of Fresnillo from Jan. 28 to Jan. 31 in 1867 - shortly before
his death - was a big event for the people of Fresnillo. A native Zacatecan,
Luis Moya, took the city during the Revolution in 1911.
Notable sons of Fresnillo include: the painter Francisco Goitia (1882-1960);
Manuel M. Ponce (1882-1948), a brilliant composer; Luis G. Ledesma, a
political leader; the famous composer Candelario Rivas (1860-1916); and José
González Echeverría, Governor of Zacatecas and philanthropist.
The Regional Fair of Fresnillo, held during the last week of August and the
First Day of September, celebrates the anniversary of the founding of
Fresnillo. Today, Fresnillo sits on a fertile plain at an elevation of about
7,700 feet. The agricultural district that surrounds the city mainly
produces corn, beans, and cereals. Cattle raising is another important
economic activity of this region.
Fresnillo lies along the Mexican Central Railway, giving it a direct
connection to Ciudad Juárez and El Paso. In 1990, the City of Fresnillo
boasted a population of 75,118 inhabitants. In 1995, the entire municipio of
Fresnillo registered a total population 176,885 inhabitants, representing
13.23% of the total population of the state. Three years later, the
municipio's population had increased to 188,847 persons. Fresnillo is
usually considered the second most important city in the State of Zacatecas.
It is a favored tourist destination, thanks to the Gonzalez Echeverría
Theater, the Municipal Palace, the Mining Museum, and the Sanctuary of
Plateros.
Río Grande is located 85 miles (137 kilometers) northwest of the city
of Zacatecas in the northwestern portion of the state along Mexican Highway
49. At contact, this area was occupied by rancherías of the Zacatecos
Indians. In 1562, Río Grande was founded by Captain Alonso Lopez de Loís,
who acquired a great deal of land in the region.
Not until 1968, did Río Grande attain the rank of ciudad (city). Notable
sons of Río Grande include Alfonso Medina Castañeda (1891-1934),
revolutionary; José Soledad Torres Casteñeda (1918-1967), priest and
religious leader; Salvador Gómez Molina (1918-1983), historian and
professor.
In 1990, the city of Río Grande boasted a population of 26,554. In 1995, the
population of the municipio of Río Grande totaled 60,559 inhabitants,
representing 4.53% of the total population of the state. Today, Río Grande
and the surrounding area is an important agricultural center, producing
cereals, sugarcane, tobacco, maguey and livestock.
Nieves (also known as Francisco Murguía). The town of Nieves
lay 14 miles (23 kilometers) northeast of Río Grande, and 90 miles (145
kilometers) northwest of the capital city. During the pre-Hispanic period,
the region of Nieves was inhabited by nomadic Zacatecos Indians. A short
distance to the east, the Guachichile Indians lived. In 1564, silver ore was
found in this area, but not until 1570 did the Spaniards manage to establish
a permanent settlement in this land of war.
By 1572, twenty Spanish residents lived in the area, as did a few
Amerindians. During the height of the Chichimeca War (1550-1590) few people
were willing to take up residence in this area, but after 1590 cattlemen
from Spain and southern Mexico started to move into the area to establish
haciendas and farms.
In 1824, Nieves became an independence municipio within the newly
independent state of Zacatecas. The most famous son of Nieves is the
revolutionary war leader, Luis Moya (1860-1911), who was assassinated in the
town of Sombrerete in the early stages of the Revolution. The great
statesman Francisco Garcia (1786-1841) was also born in this town. A count
taken in 1995 registered 25,779 inhabitants of the municipio of Nieves,
representing 1.93% of the total state populaion. Nieves is still a center of
silver mining activity today.
Jerez de Garcia Salinas is located 22 km from Chicomostoc by way of
Federal Highway 54. The region around present day Jerez belonged to the
territory of the nomadic Zacatecos Indians. As early as 1531, the Spaniards
tried to establish settlements, but the hostility of the local Indians
prevented the establishment of a permanent community. As more and more
Spanish caravans passed through, seeking the riches of the Central and
Northern Zacatecas mines, the Zacatecos Indians of the area - starting in
1550 - waged a fierce war to evict these strangers from their land.
Finally, in 1570, a group of Spaniards led by Captain Pedro Carrillo Davila
set up a post that would help defend the silver route leading from Zacatecas
to Guadalajara against the hostile natives of the region. They named this
place "Jerez de la Frontera" perhaps in honor of the fortified white wine
from the place of the same name in Andalusia, España.
From 1786, Jerez was part of the Subdelegation of Fresnillo and in 1824,
with the independence of Zacatecas from Spain, the city was elevated to the
title of municipio. In 1944, Jerez was further elevated to the title of
ciudad (city) with the designation Ciudad de García Salinas. The designation
of the city's name was to honor Jerez's native-born son, Francisco García
Salinas (1786-1841), Governor of the state.
Among the favorite tourist attractions in Jerez de Garcia Salinas are the
Sanctuary of Soledad, the Baroque-Style Church of the Immaculate Conception,
the Hinojosa Theater, and the De La Torre Building. The most important
festivity in Jerez de Garcia Salinas is the Festival of the Spring, which is
celebrated with bullfights, dances and an agricultural, cattle and
commercial exhibition.
In 1995, the population of the municipio of Jerez amounted to 56,181 people,
which represented 4.20% of the total population of the state of Zacatecas.
Today Jerez is an agricultural center, mainly producing maize, green chile,
alfalfa, peaches, and oats.
Juan Aldama is a small town in northwestern Zacatecas, located along
Mexican Highway 49 some 32 miles (51 kilometers) northwest of Nieves along
the border of Durango. This town was founded in 1591 as San Juan Bautista
del Mezquital by Captain Miguel de Cabrera. Captain Cabrera was accompanied
by four Franciscan missionaries and 400 families of Tlaxcalans from central
Mexico.
During the regime of President Porfirio Díaz, the town was given the name of
Villa Arrechiga, to immortalize General Jesus Arrechiga, Governor of the
State at that time. Aldama was declared a free municipio in 1918 towards the
end of the Revolution. The city of San Juan was redesignated in 1932 as Juan
Aldama. Native sons of Aldama include Juan Jose Rios and Evaristo Perez,
heroes of the Revolution.
Juan Aldama has several tourist attractions, including the Temple of San
Juan Bautista and the old Franciscan Convent. The townspeople celebrate
certain festivals at different parts of the year: The festival of the town's
patron saint San Juan Bautista is held each June 24-26. A regional festival
is celebrated from November 1st to November 19th of each year, with
Tlaxcalan dancing, art exhibits, running of the bulls, racing, and other
festivities.
In 1995, the municipio of Juan Aldama had a total population of 20,056
inhabitants, representing 1.5% of the total population of the state. Today,
the municipio is an agricultural center, producing maguey, corn, and
livestock.
Miguel Auza is a municipio situated in the northwestern corner of
Zacatecas along the border of Durango, 3 miles (5 kilometers) west of Juan
Aldama and 40 miles (65 kilometers to the north of Río Grande. This city has
also been called San Miguel de Mezquital. This area was occupied by the
Zacatecos Indians in pre-Hispanic times. The indigenous inhabitants called
this area Boquilla. Francisco de Ibarra arrived in this area during 1554 and
encountered great riches. He therefore established a settlement on this site
on September 29, 1554.
Miguel Auza is close to six archaeological sites that possess ceremonial
structures and altars. The city itself also contains the Temples of Santo
Domingo and San Miguel, both of which exhibit Gothic-Style Architecture. The
people of Miguel Auza celebrate a region fair each September to honor their
patron saint, San Miguel Arcangel. A 1995 population count registered 21,024
living in this municipio, representing 1.57% of the total population of
Zacatecas. Today, Miguel Auza is the site of silver mining and livestock
raising.
Villa de Cos is a small town in northeastern Zacatecas, located along
Federal Highway 54 some 38 miles (61 kilometers) northeast of the capital
city of Zacatecas. Originally Villa de Cos was given the name of San Cosme,
but was later renamed to honor the well-known insurgent leader, José María
Cos, who helped bring out independence from Spain.
Villa de Cos earned the title of municipio in 1820 and became a free
municipio in 1918. Three archaeological sites lay within this municipio. Of
special interest to the tourist is the Church of San Cosme and San Damián,
constructed in the Seventeenth Century. The former hacienda of Bañon and the
Church of the Virgen del Rosario are other tourist attractions. The most
notable native son of Villa de Cos is Elias Amador (1848-1917), the
historian and journalist.
In 1990, Villa de Cos had a population of 3,164. Its main agricultural
products are beans, rice, wheat and livestock. In 1995, the population of
the entire municipio was 32,502 inhabitants, representing 2.44% of the total
population of the state of Zacatecas.
Concepción del Oro. This town, located in the far northeastern corner
of Zacatecas, some 207 kilometers from Villa de Cos, started out as a mining
center in the late Sixteenth Century. Founded in 1587 by Francisco de
Urdiñola, the town earned its name from the gold strikes found in the nearby
mountains. This town did not achieve the status of a municipio until 1857.
During the Mexican Revolution of 1910-1920, this town was the site of
several encounters between rebel and federal troops. As a matter of fact,
this town served as the center of operations for Eulalio Gutiérrez and
Matías Ramos during this time. The villagers celebrate the Region Fair in
honor of the Immaculate Conception from December 1st to 12th of each year.
In 1995, the municipio of Concepción del Oro registered 12,557 inhabitants,
representing 0.94% of the total population of the state.
Mazapil. The city of Mazapil is a municipio located in northern
Zacatecas near the Coahuila state border, some 65 miles (105 kilometers)
southwest of Saltillo and 13 miles (21 kilometers) east of Concepción del
Oro. The word Mazapil is of Nahua origin and means "venadito" or "small
deer." When the Spaniards arrived in Zacatecas, the area of present-day
Mazapil was controlled by a powerful cacique (chief) of the Guachichile
Indians. The first contingent of Spanish explorers arrived in this area as
early as 1554.
The first permanent settlement was established in 1562 by Francisco de
Ibarra. When silver deposits were discovered close by, even more miners
appeared in the area. However, for the next three decades, the area was
dominated by hostile Indians. Not until the Chichimeca War ended in 1590 did
cattlemen from the south and from Spain start to develop stock farms in the
area. With time, the area attracted many miners and soldiers, thanks in
large part to the great wealth of its silver deposits.
Tourists who visit Mazapil can see the Parish of San Gregorio Magno (from
the Eighteenth Century) and other sights. Mazapil is probably the largest
municipio in Zacatecas with an area that is equivalent to the Federal
District and Querétaro. From July 29 to August 6 of each year, the
townspeople celebrate a local fiesta. Today Mazapil is still an important
mining center, producing silver, gold, lead, zinc and mercury.
Tepetongo is located 45 miles (72 kilometers) southwest of the City
of Zacatecas, miles from the border of Jalisco in the Three-Fingers Boundary
Area. Tepetongo is only located a few miles southwest of Jerez de Garcia.
Tepetongo was founded around 1596 by Captain Juan de la Torre, who had
arrived in Mexico from Castilla. His original name for the establishment was
La Villa de San Juan Bautista de Tepetongo. A very extensive study of
Tepetongo and its surrounding region is José León Robles de la Torres in his
work, "Filigranas, Fundaciones y Genealogias, Tepetongo, Zacatecas" (Torreón,
Coahuila: Editorial del Norte Mexicano, 1999).
Tepetongo is also a tourist area. Its Gothic-Style Church dedicated to San
Juan Bautista attracts many visitors. Today, Tepetongo is producer of
cereals, vegetables and livestock.
_______________________________________________________________
- John Schmal was born and raised in Los Angeles, California. He attended Loyola-Marymount University in Los Angeles and St. Cloud State University in Minnesota, where he studied Geography, History and Earth Sciences and received two BA degrees.
- John is an historian and a genealogist who specializes in tracing lineages in Mexico, Puerto Rico, and the Southwestern U.S.A. He is the coauthor of "Mexican-American Genealogical Research: Following the Paper Trail to Mexico" (Heritage Books, 2002). He has also coauthored several other books on Mexican-American themes, all of them published by Heritage Books in Maryland. As a volunteer consultant at the Los Angeles Family History Center, he helps visitors in tracing their Mexican and Central American roots. He is presently studying families from Aguascalientes and Jalisco.
- John is an occasion contributor to HispanicVista (www.hispanicvista.com) and an Associate Editor of www.somosprimos.com and a Board member of the Society of Hispanic Historical and Ancestral Research (SHHAR). Presently, he is writing a book on the indigenous peoples of Mexico and on the ports of entry along the Mexican-US border. He has a passionate love of Mexican history and has been writing short histories of each state, which are being compiled at the following link:
- http://www.houstonculture.org/mexico/states.html
- Early in 2007, John will publish "The Journey to Latino Political Representation," a book that describes the step-by-step journey of Latinos to their political representation throughout the United States. The preface to this book was written by Dr. Edward E. Telles, the author of the award-winning, Race in Another America: The Significance of Skin Color in Brazil. Contact at: JohnnyPJ@aol.com
(In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, this material is distributed by HispanicVista.com (www.hispanicvista.com) without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes.)